Jamdani: deadstock to dresses

In the e-book, Woven Wonders of the Deccan, author-researcher Moin Qazi describes the hallmarks of muslin, a material so delicate that poets of the Mughal durbars romanticised it with names comparable to baft hawa (woven air), abe rawan (working water), and shabnam (morning dew). Of these, the Dhaka muslin — from which jamdani originated — is taken into account the best. Requiring immense ability and intensive labour (because the designs are created on the loom), UNESCO declared the material an ‘Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity’ in 2013. Yet, in a world of quick style, jamdani goes the best way of many different heritage weaves — at risk of changing into a dying artwork. The pandemic has solely added to its woes.

Every so usually, nonetheless, it will get an infusion of latest life. Last yr, Kolkata-based designer Kavya Singh Kundu noticed first-hand what weavers in Phulia, West Bengal, have been going by. She additionally found their pile of deadstock. “Many of them export their work. And when they make commissioned designs, they often create additional pieces to experiment with colour combinations or designs,” she says, including that she bought in contact with them “to understand their creative process, and fell in love with the craft”.

Her new assortment, Tale as Old as Time — launched a number of weeks in the past, it’s additionally her first time working with jamdani — is an upcycled one. Using saris, stoles and scarves from the weavers’ cast-offs, she discovered inventive methods to work round imperfections, mixing and matching bits to permit the motifs to take centre stage. Kundu says her assortment is a “love letter to Bengal”, a pure development from being surrounded by her grandmother’s gorgeous jamdani saris whereas rising up. “Working with these weavers is my way of giving back in terms of design,” she provides.

Tough decisions

For jamdani, nomenclature is a vital level. “The Geographical Indication [GI] tag is only given to weaves from Bangladesh,” says Mahua Sarkar Sen, a curator and researcher with over 20 years of expertise with handlooms. Moreover, silk material will not be utilized in its weaving. “So when people say they’ve got a silk-cotton jamdani sari, you know it’s not authentic,” she provides.

A pink-and-white gown with excessive twist cotton checks panelling from Kundu’s ‘Tale as Old as Time’
 
| Photo Credit:
Special association

Weavers throughout the border even have it harder than their counterparts in West Bengal. “India used to be their biggest source of income, but now it’s considered an import, and most weavers [or even middle men] do not have the right licenses or registration papers. In addition, there’s no concept of GST in Bangladesh, which makes it harder for them to sell,” says Sen, elaborating how the weavers have tried each trick within the e-book to get throughout the border. “Some have even hung on to the tails of buffaloes in an attempt to sneak in with their wares,” she reveals.

While Sen questions the phrase ‘revival’ — as a result of it “implies something already dead or extinct, which isn’t the case with jamdani yet” — she acknowledges that the weave is headed that means if we don’t take the proper measures. Designer Anavila Misra agrees. “Jamdani has the potential to bring about an artisanal diversity by utilising modern techniques. However, for us to sustain the skill and artisans associated with it, we need to make it more mainstream and link it to fashion,” she says.

A choice of designs from Kundu, Anavila, Arundhati Maitra, and Mahua Sarkar Sen
 
| Photo Credit:
Special association

Global attain

Kundu has finished this by experimenting with cuts. Her versatile items embody flattering one-shoulder, flowy dresses. “If you use a sari with an overall dense design, it’ll work out to be expensive. But by strategically placing the designs in certain areas, you can wear jamdani without the hefty tag,” she says. The hottest a part of her assortment: the kaftan (excellent for our present work-from-home way of life). “They have allowed me to give jamdani a modern twist without taking away from the craft,” she says.

Going ahead, she believes capturing the worldwide market is among the methods to make sure the longevity of the craft. “A lot of younger weavers are creating fresh, contemporary motifs, which are almost like abstract works of art that appeal to a younger demographic as well as to an international clientele. This will ensure that jamdani continues to have a future,” she says. Misra agrees, including that we additionally want to simplify the weave and work on youthful silhouettes to make it extra related. “After our metallic jamdani tunic sets got a fantastic response during the last festive season, we are working on cotton jamdani shirts for our next collection,” she reveals.

Meanwhile, Kolkata-based designer Arundhati Maitra believes handlooms want to be made a lifestyle. “Don’t just buy one-off pieces. Give the weavers enough work by going beyond saris [perhaps incorporating jamdani accessories and home décor]. Encouraging versatility will go a long way in giving the weave a contemporary edge,” she concludes.

Where to purchase

The House of Three: The Bengaluru-based sustainable excessive style label has a number of experiments with the material. From their Sattva Diffusion spring summer time 21 assortment, attempt their overlays, trench coats, wrap tunics, dresses, and extra. From ₹7,500 onwards, on houseofthreestudio.com

Yavi: From amongst designer Yadvi Agarwal’s designs, which pay tribute to handloom and impressionist artwork, we decide the Zephyr, a chequered floral cotton jamdani gown with waist gathers. Also out there are saris, tops and jackets. ₹24,900, on yavi-eshop.com

Sayantan Sarkar: The Kolkata-based designer has a variety of maxi dresses, lengthy tunics, and shirts on supply. The high-collared, cold-shoulder, pink maxi, with a geometrical fox print, is a stunner. ₹9,000, on azafashions.com

Anavila: Saris apart, try the designer’s jamdani kurtas and palazzo units. The rosewood set with woven motifs, aspect pleats and aspect pockets is ₹ 28,000, on anavila.com

Divyam Mehta: The Delhi-based designers new spring summer time 21 assortment, Rivering, contains a number of designs in jamdani. Brahmi, a self motif panelled prime and trousers, might be a comfortable addition to your wardrobe. ₹18,800, on divyammehta.com