Over the hills, down the valley

Valley of Flowers, the new assortment from Satya Paul has the label’s signature floral motifs on sharp, structured silhouettes which might be an indicator of the design vocabulary of Rajesh Pratap Singh.

In an e-mail interview, Singh who was appointed the artistic director of Satya Paul in June 2020 explains, “The idea is not to waver from the brand’s DNA. It is more about adding a fresh perspective on the heritage of the brand, about reviving the archives and weaving stories in a modern atmosphere, removing some layers and moulding the language to make it more pertinent to today.”

He hopes that the collections from Satya Paul will cater to the millennials and Valley of Flowers is the first step in that path. This assortment is Singh’s ode to the music of the Sixties and Nineteen Seventies. He talks about rising up listening to Bob Dylan, Rolling Stones, Jimi Hendrix and Robert Plant. Their album covers have been an inspiration: “The music from that era was like nursery rhymes for my generation. So much happened at that time. Rules were broken for the sake of experimenting. [It gave us] an idea of freedom. I was fascinated with the album covers and Henry Darger collages… Their graphic prints were references for the collection. The bold floral motifs, vivid colours, patchwork have all been incorporated with a modern twist.”

Rajesh Pratap Singh
 

Valley of Flowers has saris, reversible kimonos, pantsuits, capes, bow tops, pleated tunics and scarves in silk, wool and cashmere. “The idea was to make Satya Paul more relevant and contemporary, to evolve the visual beyond the first degree of interpretation,” provides Singh.

Free-spirited, daring and clever girls of right this moment could be the muse for the Valley of Flowers, says Singh, including, “It is important for women to be strong and not be put into structure or box or a cliché.”

The floral prints of the late Sixties and early Nineteen Seventies have been reinterpreted as patchwork and collages. “For instance, we have a satin duster jacket in an asymmetrical floral print layered with hand-stitched laser-cut flowers, a double-breasted pantsuit with asymmetric floral patchwork with 3D embroidery,” says Singh.

The baggage are uncommon. Think a playful armhole-inspired form, for example. “We began working with ergonomic shapes. We studied the armhole shape of T-shirts and kept the designs more architectural. As far as the colours are concerned, we kept them bright with contrasting edging, so while it is classic, it also adds an element of playfulness. The ‘Junga’ handbag’s shape is an ode to the Kanchenjunga mountain in Sikkim.”

Valley of Flowers is on the market at Satya Paul shops throughout the nation.